A special feeling descends on the Portuguese capital at twilight. The skies above the orange roofs of the historic centre turn a chalky shade of pink; in the distance the 25 de Abril Bridge sparkles after a day of statuesque suspension across the mighty Tagus River; and, for a brief moment, the streets grow hushed, as if the city is drawing in its breath in preparation for another night of quintessential Lisbon revelry.
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